W-937 Wheel Balancer Videos
W-937 Quick Start Guide:
W-937 Factory Reset:
Weaver® Wheel Balancer Mounting Instructions:
W-937 Wheel Balancer Calibration:
New Style W-MJ II Motorcycle Adapter Kit:
Wheel Balancer Truck Kit:
Weaver® W-937/W-957 ALU Modes:
W-937 & W-957 Sensor Testing:
Troubleshooting Wheel Balancer Error Codes:
W-937 Wheel Balancer Video Transcripts
W-937 Quick Start Guide Transcription
Welcome to DerekWeaver.com In this video, we will discuss receiving, unpacking, and assembling your W-937 wheel balancer.
Your W-937 wheel balancer will come shipped in a crate, similar to this crate. When your wheel balancer ships, in addition to the address label, your crate will have a green label like this that tells the freight company not to double stack the shipment, an orange label like this that tells the freight company to take special care when handling the equipment, and a white label like this that gives you instructions for inspecting the package prior to signing the delivery receipt.
Now, we will begin unpackaging the balancer. Start unpackaging by undoing three of the 10 tabs that hold the top to the crate. They just have to be straightened so they slide through their slot. After you finish undoing these 10 tabs, you can lift the top off the crate.
Now, we will remove the top of the crate; you may need assistance with this step. Once you've removed the top from the crate, you'll have the balancer and your accessory box. Use a box knife, remove the stretch film, remove the accessory box, and set it aside. It's a little bit heavy because it has your cones and remove the stretch film.
Using a 10 millimeter socket, we will now unbolt the wheel balancer from the skid. After you unpackage the accessory box, remove the two handles; these two handles we will install in the left side of the machine prior to removing it from the skid. They're a good lifting point to remove the balancer.
Now we will remove the balancer from the skid using the two handles. Lift the balancer and slide it off the skid. You may want help with this step. The final step in preparing your W-937 wheel balancer for use is installing the 36 millimeter shaft using an 8 millimeter Allen wrench.
Now we will describe the function for each key on the W-937:
- The DYS key allows you to enter the dynamic or static mode.
- The MOT key allows you to enter the motorcycle mode.
- The ALU1 key is standard alternative weight placement, one which allows you to use a stick-on weight on the inside and the outside.
- The ALU2 key is alternative weight placement mode 2, which allows you to use stick-on weights both on the inside.
- The ALU3 key, the standard alternative weight placement mode 3, which allows you to use a hammer weight on the inside and a stick-on weight on the inside.
- The DIS+/- keys allow you to adjust the distance.
- The BR+/- keys allow you to adjust the wheel width.
- The DIA+/- keys allow you to adjust the wheel diameter.
- The house key allows you to enter the program mode.
- The C key allows you to change from ounces to grams.
- The people key, when pressed briefly, allows you to see the exact amount of imbalance of a given tire wheel assembly and when held for six seconds or more allows you to enter the calibration mode.
- The stop key allows you to stop a spin cycle.
- And the start key allows you to start a spin cycle.
Your W-937 wheel balancer is assembled and ready for use. Prior to balancing your first wheel, we recommend calibrating the machine.
Thank you, again, for using DerekWeaver.com for all of your automotive equipment needs.
Welcome to the Derek Weaver Company. In this video, we're going to detail the proper mounting techniques for the provided adapters with all of our balancers as well as some optional mounting adapters.
Just to familiarize you with the components that come with your balancer, these are the standard accessories. You have the four cones, which we'll call the two large cones and the two small cones, you have the spacer ring, you have the retainer cup, and the protective ring for the retainer cup, the small ring, and the wingnut. Some optional mounting accessories are the large truck cone kit with the dual-sided cone and the unilug adapter.
The first method of mounting, the most common method of mounting, if you're using one of the two smaller cones, is to find the cone that fits your wheel and it's going to be mounted with the cone from the inside and there's a captured backing plate that allows the cone to recess into the backing plate. Next you would put the tire wheel and then the retainer cup snapped to the wingnut, and if you had a custom, or a painted, or chromed wheel, you would use the plastic ring to protect it. Put the wingnut all the way down, slowly spin the tire back towards you, and tighten it up. It's now ready for balancing.
A second method of mounting, if you're using one of the two larger cones, would be to find the cone that fits in the hole properly and then switch the wingnut from the cup to the ring, put the tire wheel on the shaft first, and then the cone from the outside with the wingnut against it. Wheel’s now ready for balancing.
In some instances, you're going to use the spacer on the backing plate first. And it enlarges the hole on the backing plate, so that it can accept the largest cone without bottoming out in the backing plate.
Another method of mounting is with the truck cone kit for dual wheels or offset front-wheel drive wheels and you would use the spacer first. It can be mounted using the two screws to the backing plate if you use it quite often or you can leave it unmounted. And next, you would put the tire and wheel and then use the appropriate side of the double-sided cone for your mounting.
The unilug adapter requires a little pre-setup before use. You can use the unilug adapter with five lug, four lug, eight lug, and six lug wheels. And you have to set the arms up accordingly. If you remove one of the arms, you'll see that the cam plate is numbered, either 3, 4, or 5. We’ll use 5 for five lug, 3 for six lug, and 4 for either four lug or eight lug. And what you'll do is you'll line up the arm and the little tab on the arm in the corresponding numbered slot on the cam with the number on the side of the adapter. In this case, we're doing a five lug wheel, so we line up the five here and the five here with the arm and then loosely tighten the t-nut on the backside.
Next we take our caliper and we measure the distance between two of the holes on the wheel we're going to do. And then our unilug adapter ought to move in unison until we line it up for the bolt pattern on our wheel.
Next we're going to mount our unilug onto the balancer. With the Allen screws provided, you'll have to align the T-nuts so that the unilug will go back against the backing plate, and then use the Allen screws with the holes that line up for the unilug adapter. If you have a little trouble getting the captured backing plate to collapse, you could use a cone from this side and then the wingnut against it and that would help to compress the unilug adapter against a backing plate to put the Allen screws in.
Once we have our unilug adapter mounted to the backing plate, then we'll just verify that our arms are the distance they should be for the bolt pattern and then we can tighten each T-nut up individually. Slide our wheel into place and then put the bolt in place to hold it. And we recommend using hand tools only for this, no impacts, because you'll damage your adapter. And if you're using five lugs, you need to use all five nuts. If you're using four lugs, you need to use all four nuts, etc., for the balancer adapter to remain balanced.
We hope this video on mounting has made the use of your Weaver balancer much easier. And, as always, thank you for using DerekWeaver.com for all your automotive needs.
W-937 Wheel Balancer Calibration Transcription
Welcome to DerekWeaver.com. In this video, we will be telling the calibration of the W-937 load balancer. In order to perform this, you will need a 14, 15, or 16 inch wheel in good condition. Prior to the calibrations, we’ll also need input the parameters of the wheel for the calibration to be successful.
First, we measure the distance to the edge of the rim and then ENTER. In this case, it's 80. Next, the rim width with the rim width caliper. This is a six. And then the diameter and the tire, in this case it's a 15.
You start the calibration procedure by pressing the HOME key then the distance up key. It will read “SEt” “UP.” Next you will hit the HOME key twice. It will reposition here and a number on this side. You'll rotate the wheel until you get 110 and the right window. Then you will hit the people key. Rotate it until we get 120. Hit the people key again. At this point, we will spin the balancer with nothing on it. Now we will take the 100 gram 3.5 ounce weight, line up our location indicator, and hammer the weight on at 12 o'clock. When placing the weight, make sure that it is located exactly at 12 o'clock. Next, you can spin the balancer.
You’ll want to remove the weight from the right side and perform the same procedure on the inner plane. Line up the location and spin the machine again. It will save the data at that point but it's also a good idea to hit the HOME key and then the diameter key to verify that the data was saved. After the calibration is completed, it's always a good idea to verify that your balancer is working properly. To do this, we'll bounce the tire.
After the tire is balanced, we'll add a known weight. In this case, we're using a two ounce weight, anywhere on the inner plane first.
You've created a two-ounce imbalance that the machine is reading properly and if you zero the location, your two-ounce imbalance should be at 6 o'clock. Repeat this for the outer plane and spin the wheel.
The imbalance should read 2 ounces and show up at 6 o'clock on the wheel. This concludes the calibration procedure and check procedure.
Thank you for using DerekWeaver.com.
Welcome to the Derek Weaver Company. In this video, we'll be performing the factory reset procedure on both the W-957 and W-937. The procedure is almost identical in both machines.
First, we'll press the house key, then the distance key up, and the house key twice. The screen will read “position” and give us a number. Here, we'll rotate the shaft until we have it at 111. Press the C key and then down to 55. Press the C key again and then up to 111 once again. The screen now says "COd" “SEt.” Press the house key once and you're gonna get two numbers here. We're not concerned with the number in the right side. What we do want the number on the left side to read 46 and it can be changed with the distance keys if it's not at 46.
Once we have 46, we'll hit the house key again. Next, it will read “B - A” and give a number here. This number should coincide with the number of the distance gauge pulled out to the edge of the backing plate, so we'll get this number and put this number on this side and it can be changed with the distance key.
There is one exception and that's on the W-937, you may not be able to pull the distance gauge all the way out on some models. In that case, use the number 230 here for your distance reading. Once we have the number in, we'll hit the house key again. It's going to read “EL1” and then give a number here. We want this number to be 007. And it can be changed with the distance keys. Once we have 007, press the house key and it should read “OFF” here. Press the house key once again. Now the bouncer has been reset to factory settings.
After performing the factory reset, you should also perform the factory calibration.
And, as always, thank you for using the Derek Weaver Company for all your automotive equipment needs.
Welcome to DerekWeaver.com. In this video, we will show the components and demonstrate the assembly of the Weaver Truck Kit.
Here, we are showing the truck kit for the W-937 and the W-957. It's quite similar to the W-977. All three truck kits consist of a larger cone that has a dimension from 3 5/8 on the small side to 6 7/8 on the large side and a spacer that gives you an additional 7/8" wheel offset.
The installation of the truck kit is really simple. You take the spacer, attach it to the flange, it snaps into place. No hardware necessary. When you mount a truck wheel, you'll put the wheel on first, then you'll put the large cone on and tighten the assembly with a Kwik nut.
Thank you for choosing DerekWeaver.com for all your automotive equipment needs.
Welcome to DerekWeaver.com. In this video, we will cover the ALU function on the Weaver 937 balancer and the W-957 balancer. There are several reasons to use the ALU mode of balancing; one would be that there's no lip to attach a hammer-on weight to. Secondly, you may not want the weights to show on the outer plane of the wheel and you still want to provide a dynamic balance.
The two most common methods of doing an ALU balance would be, first, using two tape-on weights, one on the inner plane, one on the outer plane. And secondly, using an inner plane tape-on weight and an outer plane hammer-on weight.
The two most common modes of ALU are represented by the ALU2 and the ALU3 mode. We're going to use the ALU3 mode, which is a hammer-on weight for the outer plane and a stick-on weight for the inner plane to balance this wheel. You would enter your parameters as you normally would and then just spin the tire wheel.
First of all, apply the stick-on weight to the inner plane. It's an adhesive weight and it's applied directly at 12 o'clock. Next, line up the outer plane and attach the clip-on weight and then spin the balancer.
Now, you have a properly balanced assembly using the ALU mode. The ALU functions are identical on the Weaver W-937 balancer and they're located here and here.
Thank you for using DerekWeaver.com for all your automotive equipment needs.
Welcome to DerekWeaver.com. In this video, we're going to demonstrate testing the shaft position sensor and the balancing sensors for the W-937 and W-957 wheel balancers.
Begin by powering the machine on. We recommend hitting the STOP button to clear the machine, then hit the house key, the DIS+ key, the house key, and hit the house key once again.
Now we can test the shaft position sensor. We like to rotate the wheel until the number in the outer window is 0. From that point, you'll rotate the wheel 360 degrees from 0 to 127. While you're rotating the wheel or the shaft, the number in the outer window should increase in single digit increments. If the number is erratic or it does not increase in single digit increments, the shaft position sensor is defective. Once the shaft position sensor test is complete, hit the house key and we'll check the static balance sensor.
To check the static balance sensor, STA should show in the inner window and a number between 450 and 550 should show in the outer window. The flickering light in the outer window is considered normal.
To check the dynamic balance sensor, hit the house key once again. “dYn” will show in the inner window and the number between 450 and 550 will show in the outer window. Again, the flickering is considered normal.
Now the sensor tests are complete. Hit the STOP key to exit the test mode. Replace or adjust any sensors, as needed, and thank you for choosing DerekWeaver.com for all your automotive equipment needs.
Welcome to DerekWeaver.com. In this video, we will discuss some minor assembly changes to the W-MJ 2 motorcycle adapter. We'll start by unpackaging the motorcycle kit and describing the components.
The first piece is the wheel clamp. This has changed a little bit, not dramatically. Second, we have the shaft, the cone spacers and races that come with it, and the thumb screw on the end of the shaft here has changed compared to the old kit, and last we have the distance gauge extension and we have 2 six millimeter and 2 five millimeter Allen heads that will be used for assembly.
We'll start the assembly by attaching the shaft to the wheel clamp. The shaft has 4 threaded holes in the bottom of it. 2 of those threaded holes will correspond with these two holes in the wheel clamp. You simply turn the wheel clamp upside down, place the cap through the center hole, line up your two holes, and then thread in your five millimeter Allen, and they need to be tight, and the remainder of the assembly occurs at the balancer.
During this part of the assembly, we will attach the wheel clamp and shaft assembly to the machine. This assembly, as it is, you have to be very careful with the shaft; it can be easily bent, and notice on each side of the shaft there's 3 holes. We'll use the center hole to affix this assembly to the machine. So you simply place this assembly on the shaft and you have 2 holes in the flange, one here and one on the other side. They'll attach the clamp assembly to the flange of the machine so it turns as a single unit. There's a spring in the center of this, in the center of this flange there’s a very stiff spring, so what you have to do is line your holes and squeeze the clamp assembly against the flange and then get one of your one of your Allen heads started, and it's a six millimeter Allen head. Once you have one started, you can start the other one, and you want to make those finger-tight, and with a six millimeter Allen head, alternately tighten one turn on each side until the clamp assembly is snug against the flange.
Once you have the assembly tight, the back of the back of the wheel clamp is flush against the flange and will see a close-up of that in a moment. After you finish that, you have to attach your distance gauge extension to the distance gauge. You move the rotating piece out of the way, slide the distance gauge into the hole. The rotating piece is spring-loaded so you pull it out and stick it behind and now your distance gauge is assembled as well. When the MJ2 is properly installed on the wheel balancer, you'll see that the wheel clamp is flush against the flange. The two Allen bolts on the back of the flange are tight and that allows the wheel clamp assembly and the shaft to spin as one unit for balancing. It's important that you be careful of the shaft; the shaft can be easily bent if it's banged during use.
Thank you for choosing DerekWeaver.com for all of your automotive and motorcycle equipment.
Welcome to DerekWeaver.com. In this video, we're going to replicate the "error open" code and the “error speed” code. We're going to use a W-957, without a hood, to demonstrate these errors and how to correct them; however, the troubleshooting and correction is applicable to both or to all three of our wheel balancers: the W-937, the W-957, and the W-977.
First, we're going to demonstrate the "error open" error, so if you hit the START button on your machine and it shows error open "Err" "OPn," that's an indication that the machine is set for hood start and that's a simple user setting that can be corrected. So, to correct that, start by hitting the house key. You'll see "-P-" in the inner window. Hit the house key again and you'll see "On" in the outer window and that's an indication that the machine is set for hood start. So to change this parameter, we hit DIS- and that's one of the different parameters to change the machine to button start vs. hood start. Now hit the house key and to scroll through the other parameters that you can change, hit the DIS+ key. You'll see "SEt" "UP," hit the DIS+ the key again and you'll see "biP," hit the DIS+ key again and you'll see "APP," and hit the DIS+ key again and you'll see "SP" in the inter window. This is another function to control hood start versus button start.
So once you see "SP" in the inner window, hit the house key and you'll see it's "On." That indicates the machine is set for hood start not button start. To change the parameter in the outer window, hit the DIS- key that changes it to "OFF" and to set that parameter, hit the house key, you'll see "SP" in the outer window, and then to save those settings so the next time you use the machine or turn the machine on, it stays button start, hit the DIA+ key. The machine beeps 3 times and it says, "SAv" "dAt" and now when we hit the START button, the machine functions properly. And this particular wheel is way out of balance and so now we've corrected the error open error by changing the machine from hood start to button to start.
The second error we'll demonstrate as the error "SP" and that's an indication that either the shaft is spinning too slow or the wheel is not properly mounted on the machine. Generally, the wheel is not properly mounted. To demonstrate the error, I'll show you what happens. So you press the button, run through a spin cycle, everything acts normal, but you get an error "SP" in the window. The first thing to check and if you get that error is how the wheel is mounted on the machine and we'll demonstrate that for you.
The most common reason we see for the error "SP," is the wheel’s not properly mounted on the machine. This is exaggerated, but you can see the wheel moving independent of the shaft. It's important that the wheel is snug. It doesn't have to be real tight, because you'll strip the Kwik nut but it needs to be snug so you get no movement between the wheel and the shaft. That's the first thing to check and that's the most common problem with an error "SP."
The second thing to check is to make sure, without a wheel mounted, make sure that your shaft is tight. You use that, or, check that with an eight millimeter Allen wrench. There's an Allen bolt that goes through the center of the shaft.
And the third thing to check is the belt inside the machine, and we'll show you that in just a moment. If you have an error "SP" and you've checked the wheel mounting and the shaft and you still have the problem, the next thing to check is the belt. You can adjust the belt underneath. We're not going to demonstrate how to adjust the belt at this time.
And those are the three most common problems. And again, this video, it is applicable to the W-937, the W-957, and the W-977. If one of these solutions doesn't correct the problem, we suggest you give us a call on our toll-free number. It's 888-560-9510.
Thank you for choosing DerekWeaver.com for all your automotive equipment needs.