Weaver® Lift W-9F Videos

Power Unit Wiring:

Rebuilding a Push-Style Cylinder:

 

Power Unit Wiring Video Transcription:

Welcome to DerekWeaver.com. In this video, we will demonstrate wiring a power unit for the W-9F.

Now we’ll remove the switch plate and remove the factory-installed pigtail.

In this installation, we’re going to use terminal T2 and T3 for our motor leads. Make sure they’re properly connected, and we will use terminal L2 and L3 for our incoming power. At this point, you should have a jumper wire from terminal L3 to A2 and you should have one wire from your push-button switch connected to terminal A1.

Prior to wiring your W9F, make sure that your incoming supply line has no power. Begin by installing your incoming supply through the appropriate knockout along with your strain relief. The power requirements for this lift are 220 volts, single-phase and it should be on a 30-amp circuit.

Now we’ll install the ground.

We will install the first 110 leg of our 220 power in L3 with the jumper wire.

The second leg of our 220 power will go to terminal L2 and the loose wire from our push button “up” switch will go to terminal L2.

And now reassemble the switch box and place the contractor on its rail and reinstall the switch plate.

Once the power unit is correctly wired, press the “up” switch and the motor should run.

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Rebuilding a Push-Style Cylinder Video Transcription:

Welcome to DerekWeaver.com. In our video today, we’re going to demonstrate rebuilding a push-style cylinder. This video is applicable for our model W-9D, W-10C, W-10SC, W-Pro10, and DL-9, all 2 Post Lifts.

First, we’ll describe the cylinder. Here you have your port where you connect your fitting for your hydraulic line. Here’s a place to connect your spanner wrench to loosen the end cap, or the gland, and this is the load-bearing portion of the cylinder. This is the cylinder casing and then this chrome piece is the ram.

When you take a cylinder out of a lift, it’s likely going to have fluid in it. In this particular instance, we’ve drained all the fluid. But you’ll want to take that into consideration before you disassemble the cylinder.

We’ll start by removing the end cap, or gland. We’ve already loosened that, and it just screws out by hand. It’s sealed by an o-ring. You want to be careful when you drop the cylinder like that so you don’t damage the ram. And once the end cap is loose, you can just slide it off the end of the cylinder. Inside, you’ll see that we have a wiper seal here. This is not really a sealing component, but a wiper. And then on the OD of the gland, we have an o-ring for sealing purposes. The way this cylinder works, there shouldn’t be oil on this side of the piston. The piston’s at the end of the cylinder, at the far end of the cylinder, so there shouldn’t be oil on this side of the cylinder. If there is, that means that this piston seal is leaking.

Also, note on this end of the cylinder, you have a vent hole. Oftentimes, the vent hole is where your fluid leaks. It’s hard to see it, but it’s a small #2 pencil lead-sized hole and that’s to allow air to escape in and out of the cylinder when the cylinder’s going up and down.

So, once we have the gland out, we can remove the ram, which, they have suction so sometimes it’s kind of difficult. You want to be careful when you’re doing this that you don't damage the ram or the threads of the cylinder.

And so now we have the ram out. This is the piston here. On the piston, if you start from this end, you have a wear band, your cup seal, and an o-ring. And like I said, if this cylinder were removed without being drained, you would likely have a substantial amount of oil in here so you would want to drain that. On the ID, you have your threads to screw the gland in and in just a minute we’ll give you a close-up of this part of the cylinder so you can see what these components are.

Okay, to go through what these components are: this is just an o-ring, that’s this o-ring here. This is a cup seal and you can see what that looks like. If you look on this side of the cup seal, it’ll have numbers that indicate its size. This is a wear band. It’s split and it just slides over the piston. This is your wiper ring that goes inside the gland, or the end cap, and it actually goes into a groove in here. And this is the o-ring that goes around the OD of the end cap or the gland.

These two o-rings are not applicable for this cylinder. I’m not sure why they’re in there; it doesn’t apply to any of the cylinders that we have. So, when you remove these components from the piston, you want to use something that’s not going to damage the steel and taking the components off is not such a big issue. You’re not concerned with damaging the seals or the o-rings or wear ring when you’re taking them off. However, when you put them back on you want to put them back on in a manner that doesn’t damage either the steel or the seals or the o-rings or wear band. We’re not going to demonstrate that because it’s kind of cumbersome. We’ll go ahead and take these components off and show you what it looks like disassembled and then we’ll put them back on and show you what it looks like reassembled and then we’ll reassemble the cylinder itself.

So, at this point, we’ve inspected the inside bore of the cylinder. Typically, you don’t have problems there, but if you see any kind of rust or damage to the inside bore, you want to most likely replace the cylinder. We’ve removed the wear band, the cup seal, and the o-ring in a way as to not to damage the piston itself and everything looks to be okay. There are no visible damage to the seals or anything, so I’m not sure why this particular cylinder leaks, but we’ll check it and find out if there’s, if the resealing works, and at this point, we have everything clean. It’s important that you have a clean environment when you rebuild the cylinder. Everything’s been cleaned and we will lightly lube the o-ring, the cup seal, and the wear band and reinstall those and we’ll show you what that looks like and then we’ll reassemble the cylinder.

So, we’ve reinstalled new seal, wear band, and o-ring. It’s important when you put the cup seal on, the opening of the cup seal faces the cylinder casing in this particular case. And this is the old seal. And also, before you put the cup seal on, it’s a very stiff seal, you’re going to want to heat it. You can set it outside in the sun on something black or you can put it in hot water, stick it in the microwave for a few seconds, and that’s this seal here. You want to get it pliable because it’s a very stiff seal and difficult to put on.

So, when we assemble the cylinder and put it back together, it’s important that you be careful of the threads on the ID of the cylinder. And, so, normally what I do is get it started and slowly turn it and it’s a little bit difficult to put it back together because it’s going to be a tight fit. And once I get it started, I go ahead and push it together. And go ahead and slide it together as far as it’ll go. It can be somewhat difficult. And once you have it together, you can see we’ve replaced the wiper seal in here and we put the gland back on and all the seals are tight so putting them back on can be difficult. And, slide the gland into place and thread it back together. And at that point you’re done with the cylinder, you just need to tighten the gland with a spanner wrench and reinstall it in the lift. We’ll test this cylinder before we use it and we’ll make sure that it doesn’t have any issues.

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